Longgg post coming up! We just returned from a week spent camping in Tanzania with Hadzabe people. The Hadzabe population is estimated to be around 1500, and they are one of the few remaining tribes of hunter-gatherer people in the world. The Hadza are nomadic, staying at one camp for only a few months at a time. If water or game grow scarce, they move to a different location. During our trip we traveled with Dorobo safari company, who have been partners with the Hadza since the 1980s, assisting them in securing land rights. This experience was absolutely incredible and has given me lots to think about.
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| The first night we camped at the base of the Eastern edge of the Great Rift Valley by a gorgeous waterfall. The water was filled with silt from erosion. |
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| The following morning we hiked up the escarpment of the valley to reach the highlands. The highland region is inhabited by many Iraqw and Maasai people. In the distance we could see Iraqw houses built into the hillsides. |
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| Along the hike we saw dozens of colorful birds, including Eastern golden weavers, who build woven nests like this one. We also saw love birds, a type of parrot! |
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| After reaching the top of the Rift Valley, we drove to a second campsite on the Eastern edge of the Yaeda Valley. Along the drive we passed many herds of Maasai cows. They have large humps of fat stores on their backs. |
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| At our second camp we stayed with a group of Hadza and were able to visit their homes. They took us to forage for tubers. We dug the tubers using sharpened sticks and then roasted them over a fire. They tasted similar to potatoes, though much more fibrous. |
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| A few Hadza women taught us how to bead. At this camp we also made arrows with the Hadza men. |
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| After spending a couple nights on the Eastern edge of the Yaeda Valley, we packed up and hiked 11 miles across the valley and up the Western escarpment to our third campsite. |
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| Hiking through the dessert didn't provide much shade, but the acacia trees were beautiful! |
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| Part way through the hike we came upon a leopard tortoise. We carried it with us for 5 miles until the Hadza we were with decided to cook it for lunch over a fire. |
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| Feeling a bit dehydrated and hangry towards the end of the hike, but at least I could still watch birds. |
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When we reached the far side of the valley the environment was more lush, and I got my first close look at a massive boabab tree!
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| Our campsite had a huge rock that overlooked the savannah and surrounding forests. |
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| The Hadza let us borrow their bow and arrows for some target practice! Their bows are among the few material possessions they have, and they carry them everywhere they go. |
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| Eva and I went hunting with Moshi and Pilango. Moshi can speak a few English phrases and some Kiswahili, but many of the Hadza only spoke their native click language. We found lots of imaginative ways to communicate while hunting. |
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| Moshi shot a squirrel out of a tree on our hunt and gave it to Eva and I. We took turns carrying it for the rest of the hunt. Pilango attempted to shoot a hyrax (groundhog-esque looking animal closely related to an elephant) but missed. |
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| After hunting we climbed baobab trees! The Hadza are the only people known to routinely climb these trees. They hammer wooden pegs into the bark and climb up to obtain honey from wild hives and collect water from the hollow trunk of the tree. |
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| The trees are absurdly large, and thousands of years old. |
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| On our last night at camp, we sat on the rock during sunset with a group of Hadza and asked each other questions (our guides translated) about our respective cultures. After dinner we had a group dance by the campfire. They sang in Hadzabe and showed us their dances which mimic different animals. I was a big fan of the elephant dance. |
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A group picture before leaving. This community of people were incredibly kind and welcoming, and some of the best people I've ever met. A tearful goodbye for sure.
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One last bumpy ride in the safari cars on the way back to Dorobo headquarters in Arusha, Tanzania.
Along the drive we stopped for some red bananas. A good snack before the 8 hour drive and temporary detainment at the border... Back to Nairobi! |
